Shallow Footings
A footing that ignores soil pressure lets Cambridge clay push the base sideways within a season or two.
Pressure-Rated Foundations
Concrete footings are sized for lateral soil load and seasonal ground movement, not just wall height.
Structural Walls
Soil held back, levels set right, and a wall that stays plumb through Cambridge clay winters.
What Goes Wrong
A footing that ignores soil pressure lets Cambridge clay push the base sideways within a season or two.
Concrete footings are sized for lateral soil load and seasonal ground movement, not just wall height.
Starting without a line and level check means each course compounds the error until the wall visibly leans.
A level check at every course keeps the wall plumb and catches drift before it becomes structural.
Patching a wall with a failed footing delays the inevitable, the lean returns within a year or two.
A site visit identifies whether the foundation has failed before any repair or replacement is recommended.
A wall without coping stones lets water sit on the top course, accelerating frost damage and mortar erosion.
Coping stones or wall caps shed water away from the top course and protect the mortar joints below.
Scope of Work
From a low boundary wall to a full retaining structure on a sloping plot, each element is quoted separately.
Blockwork or brick walls on concrete footings, sized for soil pressure and Cambridge clay ground movement.
Brick or stone walls defining beds, paths or garden sections, finished with coping stones or wall caps.
Leaning or cracked walls assessed at foundation level; repair or full rebuild quoted after a site visit.
Ground excavation and concrete footings quoted as a separate line item before wall construction begins.
Traditional bricklaying in stretcher or English bond.
Concrete block walls for retaining or boundary use.
Natural or reconstituted stone for feature walls.
Protective top course to shed water and seal joints.
Why Choose Us
Every survey accounts for Cambridge clay, quotes each stage separately, and assesses the ground before recommending anything.
Soil conditions and levels are checked on site before a wall type or foundation depth is recommended.
Excavation, foundations, brickwork and coping are each priced separately so nothing is bundled or hidden.
Every survey accounts for how clay-heavy ground shifts seasonally, and footings are sized to match those conditions.
No recommendation is made until the foundation condition is established at the site visit.
Every survey covers masonry and retaining wall work in Cambridge.
The Process
Tell us the slope, the soil and what the wall needs to do, and we schedule the survey.
A site visit checks ground conditions and levels, then quotes each stage as a separate line item.
Excavation, footings, wall construction and coping are completed with a level check at every course.
Pricing Estimates
| Job | Typical cost |
|---|---|
| Small garden wall | £1,200-£2,500 |
| Boundary wall section | £2,500-£4,500 |
| Retaining wall | £4,500-£7,500 |
| Larger retaining wall project | £7,500-£12,000 |
Common Questions
You need a retaining wall if soil, a bank, or a raised bed is pushing against one side of the structure. A garden wall simply divides or defines space with equal ground on both sides. Getting this wrong matters: a decorative wall built where a retaining wall is needed will crack or lean within a few seasons.
A leaning wall almost always needs rebuilding rather than patching. Leaning means the foundation or the soil behind it has moved, and repointing the face does nothing to fix that. Isolated cracks from frost or settlement can sometimes be repaired, but a structural assessment of the base is needed first before any decision is made.
The most common causes are inadequate foundations, no drainage behind a retaining wall, or soil movement pushing the structure outward. Clay-heavy ground, common around Cambridge, shrinks in dry summers and swells in wet winters, which cycles stress through the wall year after year until something gives.
The clearest signs are a wall that leans away from the higher ground, horizontal cracks running along mortar courses, or bulging in the middle of the face. If the lean is visible to the eye, the pressure has already overcome the wall’s resistance and the situation will worsen, not stabilise.
Only if it is built with the right foundation depth, adequate drainage behind it, and materials suited to the ground conditions. A wall without drainage weep holes or a rubble-filled drainage channel behind it will accumulate water pressure every winter, which is the single most common reason retaining walls fail.
The ground is assessed and marked out, then excavation begins for the foundation trench. The depth depends on wall height and ground type. Concrete strip foundations are poured and left to cure before any brickwork or blockwork starts. Rushing this stage is the main reason walls fail within a few years.
Yes, in most cases. Building on top of an existing failed wall or its old foundations transfers the same problem to the new structure. The old material is removed, the ground is assessed, and a fresh foundation is dug to the correct depth for the new wall’s height and load.
Yes. Every wall is built on a concrete strip foundation sized to the wall’s height and the ground conditions. Skipping or undersizing foundations is the primary cause of wall failure, so this step is not optional regardless of how modest the wall looks above ground.
We cover Garden Walls & Retaining Walls in and around Cambridge, including Trumpington, Great Shelford, Sawston, Fulbourn, Histon, Cottenham, Waterbeach, Cambourne and Northstowe. If your area isn’t listed, send us a quick message to check.
Describe the slope, the soil and what the wall needs to do. We schedule a ground survey and quote foundations, brickwork and coping as separate line items.